That OTHER Really Big Hole

I ran the Grand Canyon a couple years ago. It really changed a lot of things in me. I wrote down what I could because at my old age I would hate to forget such a great adventure.   

  We started on the North Rim at about 4:00pm. Amie, Andrea and Craig dropped of Kent and me. They drove to the South Rim to meet up with us later. We met a guy named Lee. I’m really bad with names but, thanks to a song by Tenacious D, I remembered Lee.  He took our picture and off we went. The plan was to go easy on our 1st pass. We were shooting for about 8 hrs.

   It was raining and cold. I was anxious to get moving. The water and mule piss collected into mini ponds, mixed with mud, and caked to our feet. It was still light and we were hoping we could make it to phantom ranch before we had to get out the lights. We didn't.
     It rained off and on the whole way to Phantom Ranch. I tried to treat it like a power hike. We were way ahead of schedule by the time we came into the ranch.
    We sat outside by the water and talked with some guys who were waiting for the bar to open. I can't remember the exact time, the guys names, or if there was really a bar. But I remember doing the math and I started to realize what we had bitten off.
   We took the South Kaibab trail up the south rim that night. The wind was picking up and pushing the clouds away to reveal a full moon. In the distance I could see giant illuminated rock formations.  They completely defied the persuasion of the storm.  I started to think of my family and the warm beds they were sleeping in. I felt very selfish and alone.
   We traversed across a spine in-between two giant boulders. The wind was so powerful I could hear nothing over the sound of my jacket trying to fly away. I was insignificant. I was at nature's mercy, although I was granted permission to take this trail, at any point she could change her mind and sweep me over the edge. We made it to the top in 6 1/2 hours much faster than planned.
    I was hoping to meet the rest of our party with a warm reception. It was not quite the case. It was way too cold and we had interrupted their attempt at sleep. The good part was they got us some spaghetti. The bad part was they didn't get any sleep. I was freezing and I wanted to get moving before I got tired. I had eaten my fill, changed my clothes and was ready to start a new adventure.
    Two miles down from the top of the rim the wind was still howling insults in my face.  The moon was bright enough that headlamps were optional and only used by half of us. Kent was having problems with plantar fasciitis and decided to turn back before he got too far in. This worried me a little. Kent had the most knowledge of the trail. This was the first time for everyone except me. He was going to take the van to the top of the Bright Angel. This would give us the opportunity to see both trails on the south end. From there the conversation was minimal. I think I was in sleep mode and the rest of the crew followed.
    Out of the corner of my eye I saw what appeared to be a guy in a white t shirt standing on the side of the trail. I looked up and before my light could expose him, he bolted off the edge." Holy shit! Did you guys see that!?"
   They naturally figured I was hallucinating. As we moved closer I could see something just off limits of my headlamp. Luckily Craig had a brighter light and revealed a mountain goat. Even now Amie questions whether it was there. I could instinctively sense his presence… cause I'm part goat.
    We made our way down through the tunnel, and over the bridge. We were welcomed back into phantom ranch by a heard of deer. I don't know what time it was, but we were the only ones awake. We ate, filled our water, used the bathrooms, and headed out.
    Moving toward the north rim, our pace digressed to a glorified mall walk. Every now and then I'd yell out "puddle" or "water" to alert everyone else. When I got bored I would say nothing, and listen to Amie step in the Grand Canyon cocktail of mud and stench.
    We hit the ranger station and started the final climb up the north rim. It began to rain. The fog was setting in like a trailer park queen, rolling on her baby ( Nicole told me to change that part, I will when I think of something else... Nope didn't).  All I could see was the very next step I was taking. Even though there were few places to stray, my mind still wondered. I stayed focused by worrying about getting lost.
    Sunrise was expected at any minute, but it seemed to get darker. Not a lot was said at this point. We came across a few runners going the other way. I wanted to ask "How far to the top?" but I had a good idea and I didn't want to be certain.
    Not much after we could see silhouettes of trees. And like a switch that turned on hope, the sun decided to come up.  We could hear the diesel engines of busses dropping off tourists. Before too long people were coming down. The smell of deodorant became more potent the closer we got to the rim.
    We reached the top, and grabbed our drop bags. Lee was there at the time we predicted we'd be back. It felt like I never left. I drank some chicken noodle soup and coke, shoved some chips in my face and I was ready to go. Of course we had to pose for pictures.
   We headed back down the north rim. For me this was the second time. But this time I wasn't concerned with the journey ahead.  I was sad it was almost over. This was my last descent. I started to pick it up. Shortly we were passing some of the day hikers that we saw on our way up. Before too long we were flying by them. Dancing over and around rocks with ease, I felt invincible. We got to the ranger station and I waited for the rest of the crew. The water spigot was overcrowded with people. We didn't stop.
    The next section back to phantom ranch was enjoyable. We were able to run at a comfortable pace. The trail was crowded, but I didn't mind weaving in and out of traffic.
   This time phantom ranch was a busy place. It was fun to hear the stories of other hikers, and see the excitement for the adventures to come.  For a moment I tried to feel like one of them.  Then I realized I look and smell like a gimp legged hobo. With a grimy smile on my face and an indescribable stench we headed up Bright Angel trail.
   It was our last push up and out. The sun was intense and the cliff walls intimidated me. It felt like distance no longer existed. Miles were only numbers and numbers were irrelevant. Every step was savored and then forgotten when the next was taken. I would go indefinitely.  
    I reached the top. There were two ladies staring into the open void. They asked where the trail started. I told them of my adventure and how I came to stand in front of them. "Your still standing?!" one said. Yup and I already missed the comfort of the desert.  Then like a forgotten debt that went to collections, reality came back...
    I hold on to the splits and finish times like a washed up football player; hoping they would carry with them the joy and enlightenment of the actual experience.  They don’t.

-Jeremy